THE PRACTICAL HOKSESHOEK. 83 



of the horse, pass the small i^opes on this belt iiiider the 

 horse and fasten them to the ring's on tlie other end of the 

 l)elt, tying- them so that they will allow the belt to slip 

 around to the place shown in the eng-raving. Then put on the 

 belt A, buckling- one strap between the foreleg's, adjusting- 

 the chains as shown in the illustration. Sometimes another 

 strap is attached to this belt and then passed around the 

 animal's neck. The chains on belt A pass through the front 

 ring's on belt B. Belt C is placed on the animal as shown. 

 One end of this belt is tied with a small rope to the back 

 ring- in belt B. On the other side of have a rope about 

 8 feet long- and draw this rope throug'h the back ring- in 

 belt B, and then slip the belt down. This rope should 

 be long' enough to pi'cvent the horse from kicking- 3'ou. 

 When he tries to kick it must be pulled tig'ht. The next 

 thing- to do is to pass the chains throug'h the back rings 

 on belt ^, but vou need not hook the chains on belt 5 to 

 the hooks on G, G, unless the horse is a very large one. 

 If possible buckle the strap behind the hind legs before 

 swinging the horse. 



In shoeing the front feet I use a knee strap. In working 

 on the hind feet I tie a rope to the tail and buckle a strap 

 around the fetlock. This trap has a ring through which I 

 pass the rope N. Your man can hold this rope, or you can 

 tie it to anything that is convenient. With this rope you 

 (tan hold the foot so that you can work on it with ease. 

 Sometimes I put one end of a rope around the fetlock of the 

 other hind leg, bring the other end of the rope up ai'ound 

 the neck and tie it. This will prevent kicking. It will raise 

 2,000 pounds if well huilt.— By D. & K. 



Stocks for Kicking Horses. 



My method of making stocks for shoeing kicking- horses 

 is illustrated in the accompanying engraving, Fig. 58, in 



