THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 175 



as in shoeing-, unless the horse toes out. In that case I 

 turn the inside calk under more. I take g'ood care to drive 

 the nails on the inside of the foot liig-h and clinch smooth. 

 The hoof is then rasped smooth and left a little flush on the 

 shoe. This remedy, I And, yery rarely fails to cure. — Bij 

 C. H. W. 



Toe-Tips — A Shoe for hiterfermg Horses. 



My way of shoeing- a horse that interferes is as follows : 

 I take a very wide webbed shoe, as shown in the illustra- 

 tion, Fig. 96, and cut it the length I want it. I then split 

 the inside bar of the shoe from about the corner of the toe 

 to the heel, taking off about one-third the weight of the 

 inside of the shoe, which, when properl}^ put on, makes the 

 horse travel wider. I never knew this shoe to fail in any 

 case.— By R. A. M. 



To Shoe an Overreaching Horse. 



The horses that overreach are our best travelers, if 

 properly shod and trained. If a horse overi'eaches badh^, 

 I put on each front foot from a 1| to a 2-pound shoe and a 

 -^-pound shoe behind, and set them out full in front at the 

 toe. The shoes should all be made good length and wide 

 at the heel. I never use any front shoes on any horse, but 

 hind shoes for both hind and front feet, and I make a great 

 man^^ shoes. 



When it comes to horses that or\^erreach I make the 

 shoes narrow and thick in order to get the weight in them. 



This is my reason for using the heav\^ shoe. It is simply 

 to make the horse carry the fore feet out of the way of the 

 hmd ones. — By D. J. C. 



