THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 183 



short, hence there will be no spring'. The heel of the shoe 

 being" thin, and projecting back of the side calk, becomes a 

 protection to that part of the foot against stones, and pre- 

 vents bruising. The heel, not touching the metal, does not 

 receive the jar when the foot comes down, and the internal 

 mechanism of this portion of the foot is protected. I don't 

 advise anv smith to use this kind of a shoe till convinced 

 by thorough examination of its merits. Then g^o ahead. It 

 is noticeable in horseshoeing- that a good hammerman is 

 often a poor fitter. A smith with bungling movements 

 oftentimes turns out the finest work. — By C. S. 



Treatment of Quarter Crack. 



M}^ treatment of quarter crack is as follows : I take a 

 thin piece of steel and draw one edge sharp ; heat it to a 

 white heat and make a cross-cut long enough to be sure 

 that the crack Avill not extend around it ; have it in a line 

 with the shape of the crack between the hoof and the hair. 

 The hot steel will sear it so that the foot will not bleed. 

 Keep the hoof growing Avith some kind of hoof ointment. 

 When it grows down, as it will in a fcAV months, the quarter 

 crack will be cured. I have cured a gTeat many horses in 

 this way.— J5?/ F. T. M. 



Treating Quarter Cracks. 



The first thing I do in quarter crack is to clean out the 

 fissure as well as possible, but without cutting aw^ay any of 

 the hoof. Next I cut about three-fourths, or an inch above 

 the bottom of the hoof, a little notch about three-fourths of 

 an inch from the crack on each side, and then with a brad- 

 awl drill holes to meet across the crack, as deep as is safe, 

 insert a good strong rivet, say | inch, or a little less and draw 

 up tight I then put in another, above, lighter of course, as 



