204 THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 



bending- itself in the shell, and allows the hoof to grow 

 down, so that, at the next shoeing", there will be a firmer 

 vein of horn on which to nail the shoe. — By Highland. 



Shoeing a Crooked Foot. 



I will describe my way of shoeing crooked feet. I do not 

 cut away the toe at all. If the horse travels with his feet 

 out, I begin at the toe and gradually thicken to the heel 

 on the inside of the foot, or I put on a side heel calk, say 

 three to four inches in length, with a gradual slope. By 

 so doing I throw the inside of the foot much higher than 

 the outside, I let the toe calk have the same slope, I raise 

 the inside according to the crookedness of the foot and as 

 I have no scale for their height, use my own judgment. If 

 the horse travels with his feet in, I reverse the form of the 

 shoe. I have never failed with this method. I never cut a 

 foot to straighten it, for it is not the foot which needs treat- 

 ment, it is the gait of the animal. 



M}^ way of shoeing is to shoe as long and as wide at the 

 heel as the gait of the animal will permit. I never pare 

 the sole any more than nature sheds. The frog I treat in 

 the same way. — By J. B. H. 



A Knee-Sprung Horse — Thrush. 



My plan for winter shoeing of knee-sprung horses is to 

 pare the foot at the toe, as in ordinary shoeing. Keep the 

 heel down rather low, and let the shoe stick out over the 

 heel a little more than usual. 



For spring or summer, I shoe perfectly flat, and find that 

 then the horse always goes Avell. 



I had a case of thrush last summer, and cured it by the 

 following treatment : I poured kai^osene oil into the frog of 



