FERRY-BOATS. 57 



CHAPTER 



Birkenhead Ferry Boats Gruff Englishmen The Abbey Flour 

 Market The Park A Democratic Institution Suburban Villas, etc. 



fFHE ferry-boat by which we crossed to Birkenhead was very 

 -*- small and dingy. There was no protection from the weather 

 on board of her, except a narrow, dark cabin under deck. There 

 were uncushioned seats all around the outside, against the rail, 

 and the rest of the deck was mostly filled up with freight, spars, 

 etc. She had a bowsprit, and a beautiful light, rakish mast and 

 topmast fitted to carry a gaff sail. She was steered with a wheel 

 in the stern. The pilot or master (a gentleman with a gold band 

 on his hat and naval buttons) stood on the paddle-boxes to direct, 

 and a boy stood over the engine to pass orders below. The 

 engine was under deck, the tops of the cylinders only appearing 

 above it. It was, however, entirely exposed to observation, and 

 showed excellent workmanship, and was kept perfectly clean and 

 highly polished. It was of entirely different construction from 

 any American engine, having three oscillating cylinders. The 

 "hands" looked like regular tars, wearing tarpaulins, with the 

 name of the boat in gilt letters on the ribbon, blue baize shirts, 

 and broad-bottomed trowsers hung tight on the hips. The boat 

 came alongside the wharf, ran out her hawsers, and took in her 



