APPENDIX. 355 



ever taken at this, though once or twice, where we were going 

 to spend a Sunday, and the rooms were not agreeable, or con- 

 venient to write in, we proceeded further. We soon, however, 

 were able to guess very well the character of a house by its out- 

 side appearance, and could regulate our disbursements with great 

 exactness. 



Inns. The great difference between the large "first-class" 

 inns and the second and third class is, that in the latter the 

 lodgers are so few that one or two servants can take the place of 

 three or four at the former. Frequently the landlord may be 

 porter and Boots, (and will act as guide commissionaire or cice- 

 rone /) the mistress, cook ; and their daughter, waiter and cham- 

 bermaid. In such cases, generally, no servant's fees at all are 

 expected, and at most a third or half of what is honestly due the 

 servants of the stylish inn will be satisfactory. The small inns 

 are really often more comfortable to the pedestrian than the large 

 ones ; because he can be more at his ease ; need not care how he 

 appears; can wheel the sofa up to the fire or open all the win- 

 dows ; dine in his slippers, and smoke, if he likes, in the parlor : 

 take command of the house, in short : see for himself that his 

 shoes are greased and his linen washed and drying, his knapsack- 

 straps repaired, lost buttons replaced, and all his rig a-taunto for 

 an early start without delays in the morning. 



If you call for anything for your table that the house is not 

 provided with, it will be at once procured from the shops ; the 

 cooking is generally good, and the bread always fine. We 

 usually contented ourselves with one hot meal in a day. Two of 

 us were without the habit of drinking tea or coffee, and would 

 often make our breakfast of bread and milk ; lunch on bread and 

 cheese and beer, and take a substantial meal at the end of our 

 day's walk. We thought we walked better with this arrange- 

 ment than any other. 



For less than seventy cents a-day it is possible to travel in Eng- 

 land without hardship or injury to health. For how much less I 

 cannot say. I once stopped alone at a house where I dined with 

 the family on boiled bacon and potatoes and a bag-pudding, for 

 which I was charged six-pence ; breakfasted on scalded milk and 

 bread for twopence; and was asked sixpence in advance for 

 lodging. I had a good, clean bed and washing conveniences in 

 my room. Add to this twopence for tea, and the day's living is 

 33 cents. This was in the north of England, and was extraor- 

 dinary. The usual charge for lodging is a shilling, sometimes 



