308 By Stream and Sea. 



then, to know, that to-day we are seventy miles from Melville 

 Island ; that to-morrow, perhaps, we are opposite Port Es- 

 sington, "proved to be notably the permanent abode of 

 mosquitoes, malaria, and death," and not, therefore, a desir- 

 able spot for a summer picnic ; that 220 miles due north are 

 to be found the Am Islands and their pearl fisheries ; and 

 that for the next 300 miles we are ploughing the head of the 

 Gulf of Carpentaria. Just as town councils take uninterest- 

 ing reports " as read," we, having nothing better to do, will 

 take all this, and much more, for granted. 



Booby Island, a square brown dome of rock, is, as a 

 matter of fact, the first intimation we have that Australia is at 

 hand the land of anomalies, of wealth untold because 

 undeveloped, of ardent hopes and strong desires ; the land 

 for an early glimpse of which we all strain expectant eyes. 

 Once upon a time Booby Island was known amongst 

 mariners as the Torres Straits Post Office, where there were 

 no late and early deliveries, where prying postmistresses and 

 sneaking postmasters never opened your letters, and where 

 the postman's knock was never heard. In a cave which 

 required neither padlock nor money-order office, passing ships 

 would call for, or leave letters or provisions; the desolate 

 crag is, however, now left to the undisputed possession of the 

 birds from whom it derives its name, and the lonely port of 

 Somerset, which they say is in its turn to be abandoned, 

 does duty as a medium of communication or relief. 



Considering all that we have heard and read of Australia, 

 it is not surprising that our first glimpse is, if not prejudiced, 

 at least biassed. Prince of Wales Island we pass at close 

 quarters, admiring as we go its grassy highlands, green 

 glades, and dense forests. At our elbow are a couple of return- 

 ing colonials, who warn us that the first view of the mainland 

 will not be half so inviting ; that, in short, Australian scenery 



