344 VELVET COLLARS, SHAPE OF BODY COATS, 



the waist. The buckle should be in line with the buttons on 

 the front of the coat. 



VELVET COLLARS. 



Velvet collars may be worn on the body coats in place of 

 the cloth ones and are usually used for appointment classes. 



SHAPE, ETC, OF BODY COATS. 



The collars of the coats are so cut that they lie almost 

 flat on the shoulders and fit smoothly against the edge of the 

 waistcoat. 



The cuffs, which are merely indicated by a single line of 

 stitching about three inches from the end of the sleeve, are 

 for the body coats slit up to that point from the bottom ; and 

 the cloth of the upper part of the slit folded over the under. 

 There is no slit in the sleeves of the coachman's and groom's 

 greatcoat. Velvet, colored cloth or braid cuffs should not be 

 used. 



Shoulder knots or other forms of military braid (see Fig. 

 194) should not be used. (See Heraldry, Chapter III.) 



The greatcoats of coachman and groom should be made 

 with strap seams. 



There are two distinct ways of cutting the skirts of the 

 coats. These are known respectively as the close hanging 

 and the bell ; the latter is more appropriate for a servant in 

 attendance upon a lady's carriage than on any other occasion, 

 though they are frequently seen on servants accompanying a 

 brouo^ham or similar vehicle. 



There should be placed on the skirts " side edges " which 

 appear under each button. " Side edges " are small pieces 

 of triangular cloth the base of which is parallel with and fast- 

 ened under the outside slit of the skirt. 



