FOOTMAN'S LIVERY AND WAISTCOATS. 347 



is shorter, and for the sake of proportion there should not be 

 as many buttons in front, and that by placing the lowest 

 skirt button some distance from the bottom an appearance of 

 greater length is produced. The writer believes that the 

 uneven effect resulting when both men are seated on the box 

 more than offsets the claims of those who advocate this dif- 

 ference. Moreover, the bodies of the coats are proportion- 

 ally the same, the difference is in the skirt. When the 

 groom is in attendance alone there is no reason why fiv^e 

 buttons should not be sufficient if the servant is small. 



footman's livery. 



When the house servant, or footman, accompanies a lady's 

 carriage, he should wear his regular livery (see plate), and 

 his hat should be the same shape as that worn by the coach- 

 man. In winter his greatcoat should fall within about four 

 inches of the ground, and his gloves should be the same as 

 those worn by the coachman. 



coachman's and groom's waistcoats. 



The canary and black striped waistcoat has long been 

 associated with stable servants, and is the one generally used. 

 The stripes run horizontally. Other colors usually denote 

 household servants, but lately the waistcoats of the livery of 

 many of the winning entries in appointment classes have been 

 blue and yellow. The material of which the waistcoat is 

 made is called Valencia. The collar should be so cut that 

 about a quarter of an inch of the waistcoat shows above and 

 all around the collar of the body coat. The effect of the 

 waistcoat showing is however more satisfactorily produced 

 by having a separate strip sewed inside the collar of the body 



