COACHMAN'S AND GROOM'S STABLE CLOTHES. 351 



The boot tops should be of a fine quality leather and 

 about 4 3-4 inches deep. Celluloid tops should never be 

 used. The tops are usually colored a rich tan, called ma- 

 hogany, or of a pink shade; and sometimes of white ooze 

 skin when used on the boots of servants in attendance upon 

 ladies' carriages. This distinction is not necessary, but it 

 evinces a discrimination regarding details. Black tops of 

 cloth are frequently used if the servants are in mourning 

 livery. 



coachman's and groom's stable clothes. 



The material used for stable clothes or so-called undress 

 livery is called " whipcord." It can be obtained in almost 

 all shades of brown or gray. Whatever color the owner 

 chooses, it should be of a dark shade, and the strapping, 

 when used, if full or about the knee, should be of dark buck- 

 skin. The coat and waistcoat may be worn with either 

 trousers or with breeches of the same material. Leggins of 

 box-cloth or pigskin are also used with the breeches. Top- 

 boots should never be worn. The use of breeches is preferred 

 as beine more suitable for all kinds of work, such as exercis- 

 ing horses, etc. The coat for the coachman should be a cut- 

 away and that for the groom a sack coat. A black, not 

 brown, hat should be worn with undress livery. A derby 

 with rather straight sides and slightly rounded crown should 

 be worn with the sack coat, and a felt hat with a flat crown 

 is considered the proper shape when the tail-coat is used. 

 Black boots, laced or buttoned, are the only kind that should 

 be worn. 



The short, double breasted covert coat, with strap seams, 

 is the proper topcoat to use with this form of livery. For 



