HATS, COCKADES AND EPAULETS. 353 



shown in the plates of livery. The material of which they 

 are made should be unfigured. Each servant should be 

 provided with one dozen scarfs. They should be worn with- 

 out a scarf pin, as otherwise the coachman is likely to use 

 one kind of pin, the groom another, and the scarf to appear 

 punctured with holes. 



HATS. 



Three livery hats should be provided ; the silk hat for 

 full dress in fair weather, the cassimere one to take its place 

 in threatening weather, and a derby for the undress livery or 

 for street wear when doing errands, etc. For description of 

 the shapes of the latter hat see under Undress Livery. The 

 silk hats shown in the half-tone plates in this chapter are 

 more "belled " than the writer advocates. 



COCKADES AND EPAULETS. 



Servants of military and naval officers and of foreign am- 

 bassadors and ministers are alone allow^ed to w^ear epaulets, 

 cockades and aiguillettes. The different forms of epaulets 

 are shown on p. 345. Cockades are made of leather, and 

 the loops may be either plain or of the official colors. 

 Cockades for mourning purposes should always be of crepe. 

 Cockades and aiguillettes when used should be worn on the 

 left-hand side of the hat. The military cockade is shown in 

 Fig. 195 and the naval cockade in Fig. 196. 



" Cockade-wearing servants whose masters do not hold offices which 

 represent the crown have my authority to think their masters impostors." — 

 Coussans, " Heraldry, ^^ p. 336, 4th edition. 



Only those servants entitled to wear cockades can use the 

 black crepe band on the upper part of the left sleeve as a 

 form of mourning for a member of their master's family. 



