BRIDLE, SADDLE, ETC. 573 



sand-cracks, etc. If he has interfered he is Hkely to do so 

 again. If he shies persistently don't have him. If he lugs 

 or bores down on the reins you won't enjoy him. If he 

 kicks, other people will avoid you. A curb on the hind leg 

 is unsightly and spoils his value, but is seldom a real detri- 

 ment. Straight pasterns will jar you at every step. If he 

 turns out a fore-foot or winds it in the delivery, his value is 

 greatly affected. Avoid either a cow-hocked one, or one 

 who goes with his hind legs straddled. Take care he has 

 not a hip down. Look out for marks of speedy cut inside 

 the cannon-bones, which should be short, for this also 

 insures his hocks being well let down. Back him, in search 

 of stringhalt, or turn him short. An incorrigible stumbler 

 is, of course, a horse to be avoided, as is one that forges, 

 cribs, balks, interferes, rears habitually, or displays inveterate 

 vice. Improvement may be made in animals so afiBicted, 

 but they are not to be depended upon, and when riding is 

 for pleasure it is better to let them go to the auction 

 yard. 



BRIDLE, SADDLE, ETC. 



As to the bridle, the best to learn with is a plain snaftic 

 with a single rein. The next step is to attach two reins to 

 it. The plain snaffle is preferable to either a twisted or a 

 double ringed one, because the novice cannot hurt the 

 horse's mouth with it before he has learned the great lesson, 

 that under no circumstances must he ever depend on the 

 reins for the retention or recovery of his seat. It is the one 

 great cardinal rule, of which hereafter. Later on, a bit and 

 bridoon, double bridle, is the best. A Pelham is frequently 

 used, but should only be in very good hands. 



