I 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



The biggest of the four lions Frontispiece 



FACING PAGE 



In the coast belt 4 



M'Ganga — My head man on two trips 5 



Kongoni, Memba Sasa, Sanguika 12 



Dolo, Sulimani, The Toto — our donkey force ... 12 



Donkey fully packed 13 



Typical camp — tents in a circle, goods and donkeys in the 



centre 20 



Porter's camp 21 



Crossing the Southern Gwaso Nyero 28 



Crossing the Southern Gwaso Nyero — or N'Gouramani — 



River 28 



Slinging loads, by means of a snatch block, across the 



Southern Gwaso Nyero River 29 



The Southern Gwaso Nyero River 29 



Masai girl and married woman 36 



Masai married woman 37 



Curtain vines in the canon near Mt. Bellfield ... 54 



The Wasonzi Village near 01-Sambu 54 



Wasonzi hut with fortified doorway 55 



Guides from the Wasonzi 55 



Crossing the swamps above Lake Natron 64 



Soda incrustations at the head of Lake Natron . . 65 



Head shaving by the porters 65 



The Pleasant Camp — at which we did not stop . . 72 



How we sent out our first letters — in the spHt stick . . 73 



The sultan of the Wasonzi — "The oldest man I ever saw" 76 



Fortified gate below the Wasonzi Village .... 76 



The Prime Minister of the Wasonzi 77 



Euphorbia Forest near N'digadigu 80 



V 



