THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 37 



expert, not at deliberately dumping their burdens, 

 perhaps, but at least in assisting the forces of gravity. 

 Vanderweyer's head man is a little wrinkle-faced, 

 baboon-like Swahili, named Dowdi, and his second man 

 a very airy and nonchalant Wakamba. The whole six 

 certainly earned their wages. Driving, yelling, lifting 

 loads, they seem to be indulging in a sort of stationary 

 riot, but somehow the whole mess does move forward. 

 For an ordinary five hours' march they take from 

 eight to nine hours, however. Now that our own 

 beasts are getting accustomed to the work, they come 

 in very close after the porters; so we are very well 

 pleased with our American pack-saddle rig. 



Climbed the beautiful forest trail, and out to the 

 bench. Made camp just where in 191 1 we turned off 

 to our Topi Camp.* Thousands of brilliant butterflies 

 fluttering just over a waterhole made a pretty sight. 

 Many Masai, men and women, visited us. I had a 

 wonderful success with simple coin tricks, a sword cane 

 George Bachelder had presented and which Ali proudly 

 carries as a safari stick, an old opera hat Newland gave 

 us, and the image in the Graflex. Tried in vain to buy 

 spears, but was offered a girl of fifteen — who seemed 

 pleased — for three rupees. This by a man who had 

 seen me — and Mrs. White — in 191 1. Said he gravely: 



"You did not bring any of your women with you this 

 time.'' 



*See "African Camp Fires." 



