20 CASTLEBAR. 



to the grave ; and when his remains were committed to the 

 earth there was not a dry eye among the " Dirty Half 

 Hundred/' 



Two months afterwards, when an Irish soldier was ques- 

 tioned on the merits of his successor " The man is well 

 enough," said Pat, with a heavy sigh, " but where will we 

 find the equal of the Mad Major ? By Jasus, it was a com- 

 fort to be cursed by him V 



CHAPTER V. 



Castlebar Newport Departure from Christendom Progress into Terra 

 Incognita Roads and scenery Mulranny Passage down the Inlet 

 Incidents Lodge in the Wilds of Erris Description of the establish- 

 ment. 



WITHOUT any adventure worthy of a place in this itinerary, 

 I reached in safety the capital of Mayo, From other pro- 

 vincial cities, this town is distinguished in having a new drop 

 and an old gaol ; a swamp in the centre of the town sur- 

 rounded by an iron chain, judiciously placed there, I imagine, 

 to prevent cattle and children being lost in the morass which 

 it environs ; a court-house, with a piazza and facade, of an 

 original order of architecture, only known to Irish professors 

 of the art of building ; trade and manufactures are limited to 

 felt-hats and poteen whisky ; and the only machinery I could 

 discover was the drop, aforesaid. I was informed that the 

 chapel and petty-sessions are generally crowded, as is the 

 market, upon a hanging-day. 



I was called next morning at five o'clock by the waiter, to 

 proceed by the Sligo mail, although on the preceding night I 

 had taken considerable pains to persuade him that my course 

 hy westward. One hour afterwards, the chamber-maid roused 

 me to inquire if I had any intention of proceeding to Holly- 

 mount by a hackney car. To save these worthy people" further 

 trouble, I arose and dressed, and, wishing to avoid a vestry to 

 be that day holden in the town, and where, in the course of ar- 

 gument, it was believed that divers lives would be lost, I took 

 an early breakfast, and departed. 



