CONCLUSION. 321 



I came prepared to dislike a people who, unhappily for 

 themselves, are little known and less regarded. I found my 

 estimate of their character false, for kindnesses were returned 

 tenfold, and the native outbreakings of Milesian hospitality 

 met me at every step. What though the mountaineer had 

 nothing but his potato-basket to offer it was freely open to 

 my hand. Did I wander from the road ? his loy* was left in 

 the furrow, and he ran miles to put me in the right path. If 

 it rained and I sheltered in a cabin, the hearth was swept, 

 the driest log placed upon the fire, and the bed- covering 

 taken off to keep my saddle from the shower. If possible, 

 my wishes were anticipated and labour was unheeded when 

 my pleasure or comfort could be attained. 



One incident I must mention, for it marks the character 

 of this simple and devoted peasantry. It was the hottest of 

 the dog-days, and we had toiled over a barren moor, and 

 missed some packs that we were aware were in that neigh- 

 bourhood. A hill of most discouraging altitude was before 

 us and as its face was difficult beyond description, I hesi- 

 tated to attempt it. But beyond it was a land of promise a 

 valley where wonders might be expected and malgre fatigue, 

 I did muster courage for the ascent. I gave my gun to a 

 young peasant who acted as my henchman, and, as he was 

 already loaded heavily, I observed him stagger more than 

 once before we gained the summit. Throughout the day he 

 never left my side when the river was forded, he led the 

 way and yet I observed that he was unusually flushed, and 

 at times sighed heavily. When we reached the cabin, he 

 tottered to a seat, and the next moment became insensible. 

 Then, and not till then, the truth was disclosed : he had 

 been attacked with measles on the preceding night ; but rather 

 than surrender his post to another, he actually, arid under 

 the fever of the disease, worked for twelve hours beneath a 

 burning sun. Old Antony, by some simple means, brought 

 the eruption plentifully to the skin, and in another week my 

 gallant henchman was at my side, without any apparent trace 

 of lassitude. 



1 have left these mountains, and never shall I enjoy the 

 * Loy, a narrow sp.ii.lc. 



