close and bevel it off well clear back, fittini^ 

 the heel just the length of the foot. Braze a 

 flat calk on the inside heel, nothing on the 

 outside heel ; braze a sharp calk about two 

 inches long along the inside toe of the shoe 

 beginning inside of the center of the toe and 

 extendino- to about the second nail hole. Draw 

 a good, stiff' clip down on the outside back at 

 the heel; rivet a leather pad on the shoe and 

 put in a good spring. The outside clip will 

 hold that quarter where it is and all of the 

 pressure of the spring will be brought to bear 

 on the inside quarter, and will force it out so 

 that in a month or two the horse wnll stand 

 square on his front feet — his feet will be under 

 the center of the column of bones instead of 

 on one side of it. In taking down the outside 

 of the foot you may think you are tipping him 

 out, but if you will measure with a compass 

 from the coronary band to the floor, back about 

 two and a half inches from the center of the 

 toe, you will discover that you have only dress- 

 ed the foot level. If the horse is not in train- 

 ing, blister the coronary bands, but if he is in 

 training use a strong liniment or iodine paint 

 on the coronets to stimulate the growth of the 

 horn; but do not give the horse any stiff work 

 for a week after making a radical change like 

 this for reasons T have stated in a previous 

 chapter. 



Remove the shoes every week or ten days, 

 open the spring a little, spread the shoe a little, 

 lower the foot a trifle on the outside and re- 

 pack the foot with medicated oakum and some 

 preparation that will supply the necessary 



33 



