wail u\ Kiio^:y.~^iiig away enough Ox luc muLOiii 

 of it to permit of the tip being put on so that it 

 will be level Avith the back part of the foot that 

 has not been touched. Square it at the toe and 

 bevel off slightly, and also bevel off the edges 

 and be sure that the nail-heads are down 

 smooth with the surface of the tip. On the 

 hind feet, which should be dressed perfectly 

 level, use a plain, flat, square-toed shoe wath a 

 small block heel-calk, leaving the heels of the 

 shoe about the same length. If the outside 

 heel is a trifle the longest it will do no harm. 

 Have the shoe weigh not over four ounces, 

 three ounces would be better. Where the colt 

 is a "natural born trotter," goes in a line, and 

 is on a trot all of the time, and balances in six 

 ounces in front, I would advise the use of hard 

 aluminum for the front tip, because you can 

 make a four-ounce tip wnde and thin, that will 

 afford more protection than the narrow steel 

 tip, and you can use in connection with this 

 tip a two or three-ounce toe-weight if neces- 

 sary ; put on the lightest hind shin boot with 

 speedy-cut attachment you can buy and throw 

 away the scalper, for the scalping boots and 

 the elbow boots are the meanest boots a horse 

 can wear, although there is no denying the fact 

 that in many cases they are absolutely indis- 

 pensible. 



If the colt paddles with one or both of his 

 front feet — wings out — shoe him in front wnth 

 an outside swedged shoe ; the inside should be 

 left plain and beveled off from the center of 

 the toe — where the swedge stops — ^back to 

 the heel. If the inside w^eb of the shoe is made 



41 



