CATTLE. 151 



this snperabnndant butter, the whey is set in sLallow pans, as is done 

 with milk when butter is made; and an inferior kind of butter called 

 whey-butter is made from the cream of fat skimmed off". 



Cheeses are frequently colored — a practice which probably arose from 

 the notion of making the cheese look richer; but now it deceives no 

 one. Yet if some cheeses were not colored they would not be so market- 

 able, owing to the association that subsists between the color and the 

 quality of the cheese. The substance used for coloring is most com- 

 monly anatto. It is ground fine on a stone, and mixed with the milk at 

 the time the rennet is put in. 'J he juice of the orange carrot, and the 

 flower of marigold, are also used for this purpose. Cheddar, a cheese 

 made in Somersetshire, which is highly prized, Stilton, Derby, and some 

 other cheeses, are never colored ; Cheshire slightly ; but Gloucester and 

 North Wiltshire deeply. Foreign cheeses are only colored very slightly, 

 if at all. The Dutch cheeses are made in a very similar manner to the 

 Gloucester cheeses, but the milk is generally curdled by means of mu- 

 riatic acid, or spirits of salt; and great care is taken to prevent fer- 

 mentation, and to extract the whole of the whey. For this purpose the 

 curd is repeatedly broken and pressed ; and before it is made up into 

 the round shape in which it is usually sold, the broken curd is well 

 soaked in a strong solution of common salt in water. This diffuses the 

 salt throughout the whole mass, and effectually checks fermentation. 

 When the cheeses are finally pressed, all the whey which may remain is 

 washed out with the brine ; salt is likewise rubbed over the outside, and 

 they are set to dry on shelves in a cool place. The flavor of the cheese 

 is perhaps impaired by the stoppage of the fermentation ; but it never 

 heaves, and it acquires the valuable quality of keeping well even in 

 warm climates. From the place where this cheese is commonly made, 

 it is known by the name of Edam cheese. A finer cheese is made at 

 Gouda and other places, by imitating the process in making Gruyere 

 cheese; but this cheese is always full of small cavities, and will not 

 keep so long as the Edam. The cheese most commonly met with in 

 Holland is a large kind of skim-milk cheese, which is made very like 

 Chesliire cheese. It grows hard and dry, and has not much flavor. To 

 supply this defect, cummin seeds are mixed with the curd, which those 

 who are accustomed to it consider a great improvement. On the whole, 

 it is a better cheese than our Suffolk skim-milk cheese, and forms an 

 important part of the provisions usually stored for a Dutch family. In 

 France, the Roquefort cheese is compared to our Stilton, but is much 

 inferior, although a good cheese. The little cheeses made from cream 

 and folded in paper, called Neufchatel cheeses, are imported from France 

 as a delicacy. They can be easily imitated, being nothing more than 

 cream thickened by heat, and pressed in a small mould. They undergo 

 a rapid change, first becoming sour and then mellow, in which state they 

 must be eaten. 



The green Swiss cheese, commonly called Schahzieger, is produced in 

 the Canton of Glarus. The curd is pressed in boxes, with holes to let the 

 whey run out ; and when a considerable quantity has been collected, 

 and putrefaction begins, it is worked into a paste with a large propor- 

 tion of a certain dried herb reduced to powder. This herb, called in 



