THE MUTE SWAN. 395 



better than in the month of November, when the gastro- 

 nomical enquirer, who is yet unacquainted with their, merits, 

 is recommended to give them a fair and impartial trial. They 

 may be had till Christmas, after which they are good for 

 nothing. A bird weighing 28 Ibs. before Christmas, has been 

 known to shrink to 17 or 18 Ibs. by the end of January, in 

 spite of high feeding. Therefore, make hay while the sun 

 shines, Mr. Epicure. As, in the spring, the snow-drop gives 

 way to the primrose and the violet, so, in autumn, the Swan 

 yields its place on the board to the Turkey and the Guinea 

 Fowl. If to-day is lost, to-morrow the opportunity will have 

 flown, in higher concerns than mere eating and drinking. Now 

 or, perhaps, never. 



The Swan-feasts that seem to have left the most pleasing 

 impressions on the palates of the partakers have been solem- 

 nized as early as the month of September. As to the mode 

 of dressing, those artists who are skilled in the treatment of 

 venison will easily cook Swan, viz., with a meal crust over it, 

 to keep the gravy in. Instead of stuffing it with sage and 

 onions, like a Goose, (vulgar condiments to vulgar birds,) use 

 rump-steak chopped fine, and seasoned with cayenne and salt. 

 When browned, and served to an admiring circle, let it have 

 rich gravy and currant-jelly, the latter hot as well as cold, in 

 respectful attendance. And is that all? No, the best re- 

 mains behind. The hash next day is worth riding twenty 

 miles to eat. Nay, more ; the giblets make soup before which 

 ox-tail sinks into insignificance. The mere writing about it 

 has made me hungry. Mr. Yarrell gives some information on 

 the subject, which I will not wrong him by pirating. See 

 " British Birds," vol. iii. p. 127. He has also collected a 

 curious list of swan-marks.* 



*0ne of my correspondents in South Carolina, Hugh Wilson, Esq., 

 informs me that, in the winter season, Swans are quite numerous in 

 that region, and are frequently taken alive. ED. 



