Photo 149. 



base of the rose. To the left is an excellent 

 plan exemplified. The branches are tied 

 together and a common building tile is 

 slipped down over them. This tile is nearly 

 filled with sand or common earth, and a few 

 leaves tucked in on top. No frost will kill 

 the plants below this protection, and the 

 hybrids can be wintered in this way in 

 Northern Dakota, and in Central Ohio the 

 most tender tea roses will winter all right. 

 When your hybrids become large, protect them in this same way by putting nail kegs or 

 small barrels over them. But be sure to use the earth or sand. A large quantity of 

 leaves or straw will smother the plants. Syringe your plants every spring, once a week, 

 when the buds begin to push, with a solution of whale-oil soap, until the leaves are fully 

 expanded. This will keep off the slug and other pests. Let no weeds grow around the 

 rose. Keep it cultivated. The hybrids need no water if the bed be rightly made. Beds 

 for the teas should be made not less than two and one-half feet deep, and if the subter- 

 ranean method of watering be adopted, a profusion of bloom would be secured through 

 the whole summer. Don't try to force the hybrids in July and earl}' August. All plants 

 need rest. That is the time they take it. The rose will do wonders if it has good co-op- 

 eration. In 1876 we planted a yearling Solfratare (climbing) rose. The third year after, 

 a friend made an estimate of 3,000 buds on it at once. This was in a greenhouse, the 

 bed had four feet of soil, and under that was heavy clay, into which it rooted. The 

 front lawn is not a desirable place for a rose-bed, particularly the hybrids, as there is 

 nothing attractive about them only when in bloom. The rose must have sunlight, the 

 more the better. Even the tea rose will never be anything more than & partial success 

 as a pot plant in dwelling houses (see "Pot Plants"). The magnificent "Jacks," 

 "Brides," American Beauties," etc., that you see on the market in the winter season, 

 are produced in "rose houses" specially constructed for that purpose. 



The carnation has a comparatively small root. A good garden, with a rich soil, 

 about a foot deep, is the best place to grow them. They are not a success as a pot plant 

 in the summer season, but they do fairly well in the fall, winter and spring. Don't keep 

 around old plants. If you cannot root "slips," procure young plants from the green- 

 house every spring. A two-inch pot plant is large enough. Plant in the garden, pinch 

 back the top a few times to make it bushy. Cultivate as you would corn or potatoes. 

 Lift carefully in the latter end of August or the beginning of September, and place it in 

 a 6, 7 or 8 inch pot, according to size of plant. Shade it from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. for a 

 week. Use a jardiniere. The carnation thus treated will give satisfaction. When the 

 plant becomes exhausted, in spring, pitch it out and prepare others in the foregoing 

 manner. It is well to set 



PLANTS FOR CUT FLOWERS 



in the vegetable garden. The geranium, 

 feverfew, heliotrope, mignonette, sweet 

 alyssum, candytufts, verbenas, etc., do 

 better in the common garden soil than 

 anywhere else, provided that such soil be 

 "in good heart. " Put them in a fresh 

 place every year. 



FLOWER-BEDS FOR LAWNS. 



Many failures in the lawn flower- 

 bed are for the want of knowing the na- 

 ture of the plant. Before you make the 

 71 



