CLEAEING THE CROP 147 



5 feet 6 inches long, unless for exceptionally large trees. 

 It should measure about 2 feet 6 inches longer than the 

 diameter of the butt of the tree. 



The teeth on these saws are of various patterns, but 

 the one known as the rip-tooth or rag-tooth, for cutting 

 one way, is best for big hardwoods. Some saws are 

 fitted with reversible handles, so that they may be used 

 either for cross-cutting or felling, but the most useful 

 handles for felhng saws are the box handle for the cutting 

 end and a spade handle for the feeding end. 



The box handle is made to fit over the end of the saw, 

 and is fixed by a wedge. From either side two handles 

 project, so that two men may work, one on either side 

 of the saw. The spade handle, as its name implies, is 

 an old handle fitted to a piece of iron that is keyed to 

 the saw. 



For coniferous timber a needle-tooth saw or one with 

 multiple teeth, having deep gulleys between each group 

 of teeth, clear themselves better than the rip-tooth saws. 

 Saws for hardwoods should have almost a straight face 

 with a fine set, but for softwoods and conifers the more 

 curved, or roach-belly, saws are best and need a wider 

 set, as the wood is more spongy. All saws should be 

 thicker in front than at the back, to reduce the pressure 

 on them. 



The saw sharpener and setter must take care to set 

 the teeth on both sides of the saw equally, otherwise the 

 side with the most set will draw the saw, making a curved 

 cut and also making the work doubly hard. Automatic 

 saw-sets are useful for hand-saws and thin cross-cuts. 



