PAIGNTON COCKLE. 89 



It is a fine example of the great spinous cockle, 1 for 

 which all these sandy beaches that form the bottom of 

 the great sea-bend of Torbay are celebrated. Indeed 

 the species is scarcely known elsewhere ; so that it is 

 often designated in books as the Paignton cockle. A 

 right savoury bonne louche it is, when artistically dressed. 

 Old Dr. Turton, a great authority in his day for Devon- 

 shire natural history, especially in 1 matters relating to 

 shells and shell-fish, says that the cottagers about 

 Paignton well know the "red noses," as they call the 

 great cockles, and search for them at the low spring- 

 tides, when they may be seen lying in the sand with 

 the fringed siphons appearing just above the surface. 

 They gather them in baskets and panniers, and after 

 cleansing them a few hours in cold spring- water, fry 

 the animals in a batter made of crumbs of bread. The 

 creatures have not changed their habits nor their habi- 

 tats ; for they are still to be seen in the old spots just 

 as they were a century ago : nor have they lost their 

 reputation ; they are indeed promoted to the gratifica- 

 tion of more refined palates now, for the cottagers, 

 knowing on which side their bread is buttered, collect 

 the sapid cockles for the fashionables of Torquay, and 

 content themselves with the humbler and smaller 



1 Cardium rusticum, figured at the left haud of Plate x., with the foot 

 thrust out and pushing. 



