THE SULU ISLANDS. [chap. 



way through the tortuous chaunels, which, but for the aid of a 

 native we had with us, we should nevei' have found, we arri^"ed 

 at the farthest lake, where, in the very centre, half a dozen pile- 

 built huts were picturesquely grouped. An incident occurred 

 here which, trivial though it was, showed that the feeling of the 

 Spaniards towards the natives was, in some instances at least, 

 kindly enough. They found a " Moro " ill in one of the huts, and 

 asked me to see him. He had fractured a rib by falling on the 

 end of a pile, and while I was debating wdiat substitute I should 

 use for a bandage, one of the officers standing by took oft' his 

 cholera-belt and handed it to me. I fear this little act of kindness 

 was lost upon the patient. The Sulu character has no doubt 

 many good points, but, as among most other native tribes with 

 which I have been brought in contact, kindness and weakness are 

 regarded as being very nearly synonymous terms. 



It was a matter of great distress to our friends at Jolo that 

 they could not show us any hospitality. I use the word in its 

 restricted British sense, which implies that the only way of enter- 

 taining a guest is to feed him. " On ne dine jamais ici ; on mange," 

 said Don Julian, deploring his inability to bid us to a feast of any 

 kind. In default of meats for a dinner and partners for a ball, 

 our indefatigaljle little friend had insisted on getting up a bull- 

 fight in our honour, in spite of all we could do to prevent it. None 

 of us had any love for these performances, and it was with con- 

 siderable regret that we received our in^dtation, as we could not, 

 of course, refuse to be present. The con\icts had been at work for 

 some days at the ring, and Jolo had been ransacked from end to 

 end for suitable costumes, and when we arrived on the Plaza on 

 the appointed afternoon, we were astonished to find how admmibly 

 the aftair had been got up. Gaily-dressed caballeros pranced 

 around the entrance as w^e made our way to the grand box. 

 Opposite to us was the band in its full strength, and to our right 

 the dite of Jolo were assembled in another box. Crowds of Sulus 

 and Manila men, gay with coloured sarong and haju, occupied 



