160 CELEBES. [chap. 



manacfed to elude the authorities and to earu his livelihood. At 

 length, however, he had to give in, in consequence of the 

 number of Dutch troops sent out against him. History does not 

 relate the cause of his being pardoned, but a more respectable- 

 looking butler than he appeared while directing the management 

 of his cellar I never saw. 



Our tiffin was evidently intended to be equally suited to Malay 

 and European tastes. Various little rissoles, coloured rice cakes, 

 and half a hundred other indescribable comestibles were done up 

 in neatly -plaited bamboo cases hardly bigger than one's finger, 

 while a few joints of mutton represented the cuisine of the West, 

 Champagne and claret, both far better than could have been 

 expected, were handed, and after a couple of speeches from the 

 Governor and their replies, we escaped gladly from a durian-eating 

 neighbour into the fresh aii- outside. 



Our entertainment terminated, as a matter of course, with 

 cockfighting, a sport beloved by all of Malay race. The spurs 

 used were about three inches long, and made of the blades of 

 razors, ground down to excessive thinness. With such weapons 

 there is but little cruelty in the affair. We waited to see a main 

 fought before we left. The king and other royal personages made 

 their bets ; the combatants w^ere placed opposite to one another ; 

 they made two feints, and in less than half a dozen seconds the 

 vanquished buxl lay motionless on the ground. Had he met his 

 fate legitimately at the hands of the poulterer his death could not 

 have been more rapidly effected. 



The descriptions of our Dutch friends, and the account given by 

 Mr. Wallace in his " ]\Ialay Archipelago," made us anxious to pay 

 a visit to Maros, a district lying twenty or thirty miles north of 

 Macassar, and early one morning a sinall party of us started in a 

 steam launch kindly lent us for the occasion. We ran along the 

 coast for some miles until the mouth of the JMaros Paver was reached, 

 but owing to the shallowness of the water on the bar, we had to 

 transliip into small native boats to convey us for the rest of our 



