250 NEW GUINEA. [chap. 



But at Dorei, in Geelvink Bay, a mission has been in existence 

 since 1855, and, in spite of the converts haA-ing been little in excess 

 of those who have sacrificed their lives in the cause, still continues 

 its work. Here and in the neighbourhood are five Dutch 

 missionaries — the only Europeans in the country — whose acquaint- 

 ance we made at a later period of the voyage. Shattered in 

 constitution from the pernicious climate, and depressed by the non- 

 success of their work, their condition appeared to us deplorable, 

 and one could not help regretting that their labours were not 

 transferred to some more satisfactory field. 



The long and lofty island of Batanta, which is separated from 

 Salwatti by the narrow Pitt Strait, was the first land we made 

 after leaving the Moluccas, — a dark green, shoreless mass of jungle 

 looming through heavy rain -clouds. It is supposed to be un- 

 inhabited, but two or three huts were visible at the south-west 

 end, and a further acquaintance with the island revealed the 

 existence of two other small villages. Our intention was to anchor 

 off Sagoien, an island at the entrance of the strait Ij'ing close to 

 Salwatti, but not finding any anchorage, we eventually let go in 

 the narrow strait which separated them, — a strip of water hardly 

 three hundred yards across — and shortly afterwards I stepped ashore 

 for the first tune in the land of the Bird of Paradise, an event to 

 which — without any hope of its being ultimately realised — I had 

 looked forward from my earliest childhood. 



As is usually the case under these circumstances the actuality 

 was disappointing. The woods were gloomy and dripping, and 

 birds were to all appearances non-existent, for owing to some 

 difficulties we had with our hunters, the best part of the day was 

 over. They had refused to go ashore, alleging that the natives 

 were not to be trusted at this place, the malcontents being headed 

 by Lokman, a man whom we afterwards found out to be a most 

 incorrigible shirker. Luckily, however, we were helped out of our 

 difficulty by Tahirun, who declared without much circumlocution 

 that he lied, and we packed them off at once, telling them that 



