XI.] MOMOS. 259 



clear, but there is no doubt that shallow water connects Batanta 

 with the reef that is kn(jwn to exist seven or eight miles farther 

 to the east. 



Our course lay due north to Momos, a village on the south 

 coast of Waigiou just east of the entrance of Chabrol Bay, a narrow 

 gulf twenty- six miles in depth which almost cuts the island in 

 two. It is the residence of the Eajah, who, with a handful of 

 Malays, leads a miserable existence, living upon a diet that is 

 hardly better than that of the Papuans around him. The traveller 

 in Xew Guinea who is dependent upon the country for his food, 

 must make up his mind to a fare which is probably unequalled in 

 its meagreness by that of any country in the world. Eice, fowls, 

 eggs, coconuts, bananas, and half a score of other pleasant fruits — 

 all these, which in the ]\Ialay region are easily obtainable, are here 

 unknown, at all events in those parts where Malay influence has 

 not penetrated, and the menu is reduced to sago and fish, with not 

 too much of the latter. In Momos, however, there are a few fowls 

 and such like delicacies, and we had not been long anchored before 

 two or three praus visited us with what little was to be obtained 

 in the way of food. Bartering is a tiring business. One man, 

 perhaps, brings two eggs, another a lime, and so on. Batanta, 

 if I remember rightly, produced us four eggs, for which we paid a 

 needle apiece. At ]Momos they were rather dearer, but for a 

 common fourpenny clasp-knife we readily obtained two fowls. 



The Eajah was away at the time of our arrival, ha\dng gone on 

 a cruise to Saonek and Xapriboi, two villages farther west along 

 the coast, but he returned on the following day, and we handed 

 him our letter from the Sultan of Tidor — an important -looking 

 missive enclosed in a yellow silk cover. We requested him at the 

 same tune to provide us with a large native prau and men, in order 

 that we might ascend the Chabrol Gulf. He seemed anxious to 

 help us m every way, and it was arranged that we should start 

 the next evening. 



The village of Momos is a miserable-looking place, boasting of 



