260 NETF GUINEA. [chap. 



fifteen or twenty huts only, all of which are built on shore, con- 

 trary to the usual custom in this part of the world. The sea 

 appears to be gaining on the land at this spot, for the black stumps 

 (jf trees of some size can be seen beneath the water a few yards 

 from the beach. The village had only been in existence three 

 years, and neither coconuts nor bananas were to be had, although 

 both were in course of cultivation. The clearing was only a few 

 acres in extent, and a small swamp and dense jungle hemmed 

 it in at the back. On the outskirts, where the fallen trees had re- 

 mained unburnt, beetles were abundant, and we added several 

 interesting species to our collection. One of the handsomest of all 

 the Eastern bird -winged butterflies (0. poseidon, or some closely- 

 allied species) was out in some numbers, and we caught several, 

 though unfortunately their magnificent golden-green wings were 

 in most cases torn and dilapidated. Butterfly -hunting in New 

 Guinea, or indeed in any tropical jungles, is of all pursuits the 

 most trying to the temper. These strong -winged Ornithoptera 

 dash through the woods at a pace that seems intended as a direct 

 insult to the unhappy naturalist, who, with every movement 

 hampered by rattans and other climbers, can hardly, even by a 

 stretch of the imagination, be said to be in pursuit of them. In 

 some ways, perhaps, it is less tiring than shooting. Given a 

 thick jungle, trees 200 feet high, and a mushroom -helmeted 

 sportsman, it will be seen that comfort and a large bag are 

 incompatible. A long training in the Sistine Chapel is necessary 

 for this work. Absurd as it may seem, my spine in the region of 

 the neck eventually became so sore that I was on more than one 

 occasion compelled to give myself a rest. 



In the afternoon the Eajali came oti' in his prau, flags flying 

 and tom-toms beating in the usual approved fashion. He was 

 accompanied by his only child, evidently a great pet, — a nice 

 little fellow, whose heart we won by the present of a small musical - 

 box. We had a long hichara, and learnt that the praus — for we 

 were to have two — were to be ready for us the same evening. We 



