610 



Popular Science Monthly 



stiff wire should be run through a small 

 block previously bored for a close fit in the 

 hole in the end of the bar and through a 

 hole in a similar block placed 3 in, from 

 the first block. The opposite side is 

 made in the same manner. Fasten a 



Cut out twttom and 

 tit glass Trame 



Galvanized iron 



Cut oti spout and 

 ream out hole 

 .Tor lamp fixture 



i^pout y 



Loosely 

 rivetf d to 

 .adjust 

 angle or 



ight 



Glass, 



Bend 



Bend down 



Bend back 



Margin for glass ' 



The braces for the frame and the con- 

 struction of a lamp by using an oil can 



short length of stiff spiral spring to the 

 center hole in the bar and fasten the other 

 end to a cross bar of wood as shown. 

 Run a length of cable wire from the center 

 of the bar to the foot pedal in front. 

 Run this cable straight on the center slat 

 for half the distance to the pedal and then 

 turn it off to the pedal and fasten it. 



All braces are made of ^ g by J-g-in. 

 strap iron. The braces, from the frame 

 to the axle, are twisted in the center to 

 make them more rigid. After placing the 

 uprights, these braces can be easily 

 measured and fitted in place. The end 

 stays should be bent at right angles at the 

 proper height and then they should run 

 to the upright as shown. The side braces 

 from the frame to the axle are run all the 

 way across the frame, joining in the center 

 of the wood cross piece. Turn three or 

 more screws in each piece, securely fas- 

 tening them in place, as these u{irights 

 form the main support for the axle ends. 

 The seat was made of an old chair cut 

 down to a convenient size. 



The motor wheel is provided with 

 fastenings for attaching it to the rear 

 cross-piece of the frame. Provision may 

 be made for lifting the wheel from the 

 ground by means of a foot pedal for stop- 

 ping and starting the buckboard while the 

 motor is still running. This provides a 

 way to start the engine without running 

 the machine along the road. 



Priming an Automobile Engine 

 to Start It Easily 



IN winter weather a primer for the 

 automobile motor is very essential and 

 the idea here illustrated combines prac- 

 ticability with simplicity at small cost and 

 is convenient as the hood over the engine 

 does not need to be raised. It is made as 

 follows: Drill a U-in. hole in the intake 

 manifold pipe and fit a brass cocTi in it, 

 care being taken in drilling and tapping 

 the threads so that the aluminum is not 

 ruptured. Drill a 3/16-in. hole in the top 

 of the carburetor float chamber and con- 

 nect it as shown. The bottom end of the 

 primer tube must be so placed in the 

 carburetor float chamber that it does not 

 interfere with the float, but the end of it 

 must enter under the gasoline level. To 

 prime the motor, simply open the valve 

 on the intake manifold and the motor will 

 draw in raw gas, automatically priming 

 itself and greatly facilitating the starting 



Floor 

 board 



Foot- 

 throttle 



Carburetor 

 tioat 

 chamber 



End bent 

 over Cotter' 

 pin holds rod 

 in place 



Hand controlled connection for admitting 

 a rich mixture to manifold from carburetor 



of the motor in cold weather. If the 

 motor is a self starter, run the primer rod 

 to the dashboard and reverse the position 

 of the cock. P. P. Avery. 



