Popular Science Monthly 



769 



chine bolts, each 1 Yz in. long, fasten each 

 jaw to its boom with the end of gooseneck 

 pointing forward and its extreme end 

 flush with boom end. Brass nuts and 

 washers will keep the fastenings tight and 



The brass floor plate fastened to ribs and 

 floor grating construction to strengthen it 



bolts should be sawed off flush with nut 

 and filed smooth. 



To properly step the masts you will 

 require two 1^ in. mast plates. Fig. 9, 

 with four 3/16 in. machine screws ^i in. 

 long with brass nuts and washers to each 

 mast plate, two flag pole plates, Fig. 10, 

 with a. l^i in. diameter hole. One of 

 these will require three flat headed ma- 

 chine screws to fit screw holes in same, 

 and of a length equal to combined thick- 

 ness of forward deck, flag pole plate, and 

 nut and washer. The other flag pole 

 plate will require machine screws ^ in. 

 long with nuts and washers. Two pieces 

 of 3^4 -in. brass 

 will also be re- 

 quired whose 

 dimensions will 

 depend upon the 

 construction 

 of the canoe. 



The after 

 plate should be 

 wide enough to 

 extend ^4 in. 

 beyond the flan- 

 ges of the mast 

 plate and long 

 enough to ex- 

 tend from the 

 after side of one 

 rib to the forward side of the next. This 

 will be found clearly illustrated in Fig. 11. 



If the stem piece of the canoe termi- 

 nates in a flat triangular board, the for- 



A sail plan for a sixty-ei 

 attachments placed on 



ward plate should be of the shape of this 

 board; otherwise make it a duplicate of 

 the after plate. After getting the plates 

 shaped, file down edges and round corners, 

 so that they will not cut your hands or mar 

 luggage. Then bore the after plate as 

 shown in diagram to take eight H in. 

 wood screws just long enough to go 

 through ribs without penetrating the 

 planking, and countersink on upper side. 

 The location of screw holes for forward 

 plate depends upon its size and shape. 



Fasten one of the flag pole plates to 

 upper side of after end of forward deck 

 with center of hole coinciding with center 

 line of canoe and set as far forward as 

 possible without allowing mast to jam on 

 after edge of deck. The nuts and washers 

 of fastenings should be under the deck. 



Get a piece of ^ in. oak, cherry or ma- 

 hogany from 7 to 10 in. wide and as long 

 as the width (front to back) of after seat. 

 Lay second flag pole plate on one end of 

 this plank with centre of hole coinciding 

 with center of plank and with hinge line 

 flush with edge of board. Mark position 

 of screw holes of plate on plank and drill 

 for the machine screws that fit plate, 

 counter sinking on opposite side from 

 plate for nuts and washers. This plank 

 is to be screwed to under side of after seat 

 frame with the mast plate on under side 

 and with hole of flag hole plate in center 

 of boat. Round-headed machine screws, 

 with nuts and washers coming underneath 

 the plank, are to be used as fastenings. 



To hold plank 

 in place while 

 it and the seat 

 frames are bored 

 simultaneously, 

 a pair of clamps 

 or even monkey 

 wrenches may 

 be used. Stretch 

 a line from cen- 

 ter of stem post 

 to center of stern 

 post. Mark cen- 

 ter line fore and 

 aft on the M in. 

 brass plates. 

 Lightly fasten 

 these floor plates in their proper places 

 with their center lines coinciding with that 

 of canoe. Lay the mast plates on the floor 

 plates, flange down, and through the flag 



ght-square-foot rig with 

 a seventeen-foot canoe 



