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face the wind, reducing the wind pressure. 

 The mainsail may be regarded as the 

 driving sail and the dandy as the means 

 by which one may round up into the wind 

 and spill the pressure which may threaten 

 to overturn the canoe. This is accom- 

 plished by letting out on the main sheet 

 and letting the dandy act as the after 



Bow 



Popular Science Monthly 



Wind on mainsail 



Fig A 



Bow 



Bow 



Ster- 



19 B 



Fig 16 

 Wind on dandy ^if. .1 



The principles of sailing, showing the 

 tendency of the wind on the mainsail 



portion of a weather vane, whenever the 

 wind becomes too strong. A canoe 

 rigged as in the previous article will 

 always tend to point up into the wind 

 and spill the pressure, and can only be 

 kept from luffing by means of the steering 

 paddle which is carried over the same 

 side of the canoe as that over which the 

 main boom is swung at the time. 

 - To hoist sail, trim in dandy sheet so 

 that the boom is amidship, push away 

 from the beach or float. Hoist the dandy 

 and when the canoe has swung around 

 with its head to the wind — and not be- 

 fore this— hoist the mainsail, letting the 

 main sheet be free. Then let out the 

 dandy sheet, pull in the main sheet until 

 the canoe has headway and, when you 

 have gathered steerage way, enough speed 

 to allow of steering, point the canoe on 

 your course. Never lower the dandy first. 

 Always head up into the wind, lower the 

 mainsail and then the dandy. 



"When going about, coming back over 

 the same course that you have sailed, 



turn the bow of the canoe against and 

 not with the wind. The correct method 

 of doing this is shown in Fig. 17. The 

 arrow shows the direction of the wind. 

 The canoe with a beam wind, is shown 

 at A and when the canoe is headed into 

 wind, as at B, the wind is spilled from sails 

 and booms amidship, and C shows the 

 canoe with the booms on the opposite 

 side and retracing her course. Note 

 that at any time between positions B 

 and C the canoe may be luffed up into 

 the wind and the pressure spilled. 



The improper method is shown at 

 D and E. At D the sails must catch the 

 full force of the wind and the location 

 between D and E; the booms must go 

 across the canoe with a "flop" which may 

 capsize her. "Gybing" it is called. 

 Furthermore, at no point between A and 

 B can one ease up by luffing and one 

 must take the full force of the wind 

 without abihty to spill any of the pressure. 

 A long narrow and light boat, like an 

 open canoe, has very little momentum 

 when rounding up and some help from 

 the paddle may often be necessary be- 

 tween positions B and C, but do not be 

 tempted to adopt the other method. 



To go about, slacking up on the main 

 sheet and easing up on steering paddle are 

 all that are necessary. When sailing 

 with a beam or a stern breeze allow the 

 lee boards to rise. When tacking, lower 

 them by the halliard. Always have them 

 raised when paddling as they cause con- 

 siderable drag. 



Sailing dead ahead of the wind is the 

 most ticklish part of canoe navigation. 

 The area of the sail that a canoe can 

 carry ahead of the wind is what governs 

 her maximum spread, as the canoeist's 

 weight in this case cannot be opposed 

 to the wind pressure. Also, there is the 

 tendency of the sails to gybe at the 

 slightest shift wind or variation of the 

 canoe's course. This tendency may be 

 recognized from a desire of the main 

 boom to raise or "hike" and should be 

 promptly counteracted by steering a 

 bit away from the side over which the 

 boom is laying. With the wind directly 

 astern and both booms on one side, the 

 dandy will blanket the mainsail to a 

 certain extent and there will be more of 

 a tendency of the canoe to round up. 

 This necessitates carrying more pressure 



