XIV CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Start for Ladak The beautiful Sind valley The capital of 

 Ladak Burning sun and variations of temperature Cap- 

 tain Basevi, R.E. Join a brother sportsman Buddhist 

 manes Cross the Chang la The Himalayan and Tibetan 

 perpetual-snow lines Tanksee Our guide Changter Cheap 

 mutton View of the Pangong tso (lake) Clearness of 

 Tibetan atmosphere Across the Marsemik la " Chung " 

 and " grim " Changchenmo A treacherous ford The 

 Kugrang glen The kiang Antelopes A bewildered buck 

 Completely " pumped "The " tsos," or Tibetan antelope 

 Unpleasant effects of rarefied air The native's idea con- 

 cerning them Striking scenery The dong, or wild yak 

 Tibetan fox Stalking a dong Yak beef A snowy night and 

 a cheerless morning Boortzd the chief fuel of Tibet A Tartar 

 breakfast Hair-cutting with a knife Tibetan hares Trout- 

 like fish We celebrate our meeting with Captain Basevi A 

 rare menu Basevi's sad fate, ..... 228 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



The Ovis Amman The Pangong lake A joyless solitude Lone- 

 liness Lukkur's escapade The cause of it A long and lucky 

 shot The lord of the flock is left behind Black wolf- 

 Tibetan marmot Camped above 17,000 feet, . . . 255 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Hanle The Goa or Tibetan gazelle Two bucks descried Re- 

 sult of forgetting to load The Chinese border An interview 

 with the borderers Their behaviour A curious incident 

 A lucky right-and-left Great variety of wild-flowers Packs 

 of sand-grouse The Tso Morari Its characteristics Wild 

 geese A high and cold camp Twelve degrees of frost in 

 August The Tso Kar or Salt Lake Its fresh-water neigh- 

 bour Wild-fowl A blanket city Brood of snow-pheasants 

 A snowy waste Valley of the Parang The Parang la 

 Across it in a snowstorm Endurance of the yak A ludicrous 

 picture The summit at last Nature's awful works A 

 surgical operation The napoo or burrell Two killed Im- 



