CONTENTS. XV 



mense glaciers Kulu scenery Return to civilisation An 

 old but interesting newspaper Kangra valley The end of a 

 long journey, ....... 264 



CHAPTER XX. 



Prepare to revisit trans-Himalayan regions The Bhotias After 

 tahr Up the valley of the Doulee Cascade of Bingareebeyl 

 An " enchanted " glen Bad ground Our coolies object to 

 proceed Puddoo's persuasive powers A precarious position 

 An unpleasant night in an eerie situation A mysterious old 

 tahr A sanctuary for game Musk-deer A grand surprise 

 Superb snow-scene Doonagiri purbat Old tahr bucks 

 Their eccentric gambols The evil genius of the glen dogs our 

 footsteps Up among the clouds A short cut not always the 

 quickest Surprise a musk-deer in the mist Overtaken by 

 darkness A rather perilous descent Welcome assistance, . 288 



CHAPTER XXI. 



Doonagiri village A Himalayan glacier Ascents of Himalayan 

 snow -peaks Obstacles thereto Burrell-ground Kill two 

 rams Female porters Fine old deodar-trees Bhotia vil- 

 lages of Kosa and Malari Burglarious bears Solitude and 

 desolation Bhotias, male and female Niti village Strange 

 collection of old shoes Tibetan envoy The " Jooboo " 

 From Niti to Goting Summer avalanches Old birch-trees 

 Snow-pheasants Bad walking A day's sport at Goting An 

 awkward bridge Alpine rose A grand old ram A mistake 

 A snow-leopard shares our spoils Wild defile The Niti 

 pass View of Hundds from its summit A noteworthy water- 

 shed Sketching under difficulties A terribly cold carnp A 

 deputation from the Jongpen Our Hoonya escort, . . 303 



CHAPTER XXII. 



Impressions of Hundes Wary old rams Kiangs in the way 

 The Jongpen's messengers return Signing a contract 

 Strange acoustic effect Hoonya sheep-shearing, milking, 

 &c. An Ovis Ammon with bronchitis Grey wolves 

 Dongpu A Tartar hamlet Large troops of kiang Their 



