XIV CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



Stag-shooting in Cashmere compared with deer-stalking in Scot- 

 landThe "running" season A mountain "dandy" The 

 Lolab valley We look up Bruin among the plum-trees A 

 shot in the dusk On the scent The " awaz ke wakt "The 

 " bara singha " Tapping for flying squirrels Watching for a 

 stag A love-song A royal hart Human vultures A miss 

 in the dark An inquisitive hind Splendid view of "the 

 Vale" Our reveries are disturbed Wild music Ramzan's 

 strategy A rather mean advantage Remorse A challenge 

 and a reply Recklessness of stags during the rutting season 

 An artifice for attracting them With what success we tried it 

 A native practitioner Forced to submit to his tender mercies, 253 



CHAPTER XVII. 



An unexpected meeting with a stranger in the land Noisy stags 

 How the villagers catch a burglar A serenade Cold quar- 

 ters Tracking in the snow The short twilight fails us We 

 lose our wounded stag A hunting maxim The forest monarch 

 A charmed life Doubtful satisfaction Lost trophies are 

 always the finest An exciting but rather " shady " way of 

 doing business A night vigil Depressing influences Super- 

 stitious credulity Devil take the hindmost the Goojur's black 

 stag An invasion of rats and mice How we circumvented the 

 black stag A grand set of horns Foul play Cashmere 

 method of driving a gorge The Vale under a different aspect 

 Making a virtue of necessity Across the Pir Punchal Why 

 " hangul " have decreased in numbers, .... 275 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Start for Ladak The beautiful Sind valley The Zozzi la (pass) 

 Sudden change of scenery Dras Bright colouring of the 

 mountains Tibetan polo Buddhist chortans Lama monks 

 and their monastery Sacred music The shappoo Tibetan 

 irrigation The capital of Ladak Burning sun and variations 

 of temperature Join a brother sportsman Buddhist manes 

 Cross the Chang la The Himalayan and Tibetan perpetual- 

 snow lines Tanksee Our guide Changter Cheap mutton 

 Tartar character Alabaster cliffs View of the Pangong tso 

 (lake) Clearness of Tibetan atmosphere Across the Marsemik 

 la "Chung" and "grim" Oves Ammon in sight Chang- 



