CONTENTS. XV 



chenmo A treacherous ford The Kugrang glen The kiang 

 Antelopes A bewildered buck Completely " pumped "- 

 The "tsos," or Tibetan antelope Unpleasant effects of rarefied 

 air The native's idea concerning them Striking scenery 

 The dong, or wild yak Tibetan fox Stalking a dong Yak 

 beef A snowy night and a cheerless morning Boortze the 

 chief fuel of Tibet A Tartar breakfast Hair-cutting with a 

 knife Tibetan hares Trout-like fish We celebrate our meet- 

 ing with Captain Basevi A rare menu Basevi's sad fate, . 294 



CHAPTER XIX. 



The Ovis Ammon The Pangong lake A joyless solitude 

 Loneliness Lukkur's escapade The cause of it A long and 

 lucky shot The lord of the flock is left behind Black wolf- 

 Tibetan marmot Limit of vegetation in Tibet Oves Ammon 

 ground Two big rams sighted A contretemps How I blessed 

 the author of it More big rams Their extreme wariness 

 Two hours' patience Half-baked in the sun A stormy morn- 

 ing More beauties in sight A long and trying stalk The 

 obstacles encountered in it What could have scared the flock ? 

 We come up with it again A drive is attempted Its result 

 Misplaced confidence Black wild dogs, . . . 327 



CHAPTER XX. 



Ferrying the Indus Mountains of jasper Hanle and its mon- 

 astery A Lama abbot The " goa " and its haunts Ab- 

 normal rainfall Its effect on Tibetan game "Goa" Two 

 bucks descried Result of forgetting to load The Chinese 

 border An interview with the borderers Their behaviour 

 A curious incident A lucky right-and-left Great variety of 

 wild-flowers Meet a brother sportsman Packs of sand-grouse 

 The Tso Morari Its characteristics Wild geese A solitary 

 disciple of St Hubert Twelve degrees of frost in August The 

 Tso Kar or Salt Lake Its fresh-water neighbour Wild-fowl 

 A blanket city Brood of snow-pheasants A snowy waste 

 Valley of the Parang The Parang la Across it in a snow- 

 storm Endurance of the yak A ludicrous picture The 

 summit at last Nature's awful works A surgical operation 

 The napoo or burrell Two killed Immense glaciers Spiti 

 bipeds and quadrupeds Kulu scenery Rustic beauties 

 Return to civilisation An old but interesting newspaper 

 Kangra valley The end of a long journey, . . . 345 



