THE SURJOO VALLEY. 31 



gravel, or rock on either side, rose steep lofty acclivities 

 clothed with dense jungle. This gradually changed its 

 tropical character to that of the more temperate and higher 

 altitudes, as it spread far up the mountain-sides to where they 

 became more craggy and steep. Here the fir, the oak, and 

 the rhododendron took the place of the Kyer (thorny mimosa), 

 the bright-green Sal tree, and the luxuriant tropical under- 

 growth that flourishes below. The tiger and leopard found 

 a safe harbour in the lower jungles, but from their being able 

 so easily to slink away unobserved in the long grass and 

 dense underwood, they were very seldom met with ; although 

 the deep -toned voice of the former, or the succession of 

 hoarse grating sounds like the sawing of wood made by 

 the latter, might often be heard through the still night air. 

 There also the jurrow-deer sought refuge from the fierce 

 noonday heat, among tangled masses of the gigantic creeper 

 called " maloo " or " maljoon," beneath the impenetrable 

 shelter of which it delights to ruminate. The crags and 

 precipices above were the haunt of the "gooral," or Himalayan 

 chamois as it is sometimes called. 



After an alfresco repast, for which our appetites had been 

 sharply whetted by a refreshing dip in the river, we prepared 

 our tackle under the grateful shade of the trees, before pro- 

 ceeding to business later in the day, for the sun's rays in this 

 low-lying valley were overpowering. 



Towards evening, when the heat became less intense, we 

 commenced proceedings in a splendid pool where the Surjoo 

 forms a junction with another fine stream. But our hopes of 

 success that evening were small, for the water was too big, 

 and in colour too " drumlie," as they would have said north 

 of the Tweed, and "the fush wadna force." We, however, 

 plied it most perseveringly with every kind of fish-lure we 

 possessed, until darkness brought our fruitless efforts, for that 

 day, to a close. 



On our return we found that one of the Goorkhas we had 



