MOUNTAIN BELLES. 105 



tions were two or three sturdy young girls, whose rosy cheeks 

 and merry expressions gave their faces a pleasing look, which 

 in a great measure compensated for their lack of real beauty. 



In respect of the latter, the Tibetan lasses differ from their 

 fairer but more frail sisters of the middle and lower Himalayas, 

 many of whom are remarkable for their comeliness both of face 

 and figure. The pretty style of costume worn by the Kumaon 

 and Gurhwal hill- women at their " melas " (fairs) and other 

 extraordinary and festive doings, adds much to their appear- 

 ance. On such occasions they may be seen to the best advan- 

 tage, decked out in their tight-fitting, bright-coloured bodices, 

 and full flowing skirts, and loosely enveloped in a long piece 

 of coarse printed muslin, part of which is wound round the 

 waist and skirt, and the rest thrown gracefully over the 

 neatly braided hair. Even when labouring in the fields, 

 where they do as much as, if not more than the men, their 

 dirty and work-stained appearance fails to detract from the 

 rustic grace and beauty of some of these mountain damsels. 

 It is rather strange that in the lower and middle ranges of 

 the Kumaon district alone they should so much excel 

 though perhaps it may only be in appearance the other sex, 

 who are, in my opinion, physically as well as morally the 

 worst specimens of humanity I have ever seen in the 

 Himalayas. This is not surprising in a province where poly- 

 andrism is, I believe, rife amongst the inhabitants, and 

 where leprosy and goitre are by no means uncommon. But 

 I have still a word or two to say about our Tartar friends. 



In mentioning their flocks, their canine guardians should 

 not be forgotten. Two or three of the fine large dogs, known 

 as Tibetan mastiffs, invariably follow the camp of these 

 nomads. They are most excellent watch-dogs, and never 

 seem to rest during the night, when, much to the annoyance 

 of the weary traveller who may chance to encamp near, their 

 deep-toned bark is incessantly heard. As some of these dogs 

 are both bold and savage, a man or even a beast of prey 



