CASHMERE SHIKAEEES. 123 



moola, we at once started up the river, and reached Srinuggur 

 next evening. At this quaint old wooden metropolis we made 

 a short stay to complete a few final arrangements, and to 

 engage shikarees before proceeding to Wurdwan a wild, re- 

 mote district eastward of the valley. The "Wurdwan moun- 

 tains, which are now so well known to sportsmen, were 

 generally considered the best ground for ibex. Early in the 

 spring, whilst the winter snows still lay low down, ibex 

 might, at the time I write of, have been found on the hills 

 rising immediately above, and north of the Cashmere valley ; 

 but the old bucks receded with the melting snows to higher 

 and more distant solitudes. 



With regard to engaging shikarees at the capital, subsequent 

 experience taught me what a mistake I had made in doing so, 

 as those worthy of the name seldom come there to seek em- 

 ployment, but remain at their homes, which are generally 

 near the hunting-grounds, until sent for. But as the country 

 and its language were then new to us, we were obliged to at 

 once engage men as guides and interpreters. 



And now a word regarding Cashmere shikarees in general, 

 for I have no doubt most of them are no better at present 

 than they were then. With few exceptions, even the best of 

 them are an avaricious grasping set of men who are never 

 contented, in fact, the more you give them the more they 

 want. But the arch-scoundrels are the fellows that pester 

 the new arrival at Srinuggur with numerous testimonials they 

 may have received from tourists or others who have managed 

 to slay a few black bears under their guidance, which animals 

 any ordinary villager might have shown them where to find. 

 These pseudo-shikarees are usually "made up" in sporting 

 costume, wearing puttees (woollen bandages) round their legs, 

 poolas (straw sandals) on their feet, and belts covered with 

 leathern pouches, hunting - knives, &c., round their waists. 

 They are, or were, as a rule, the most unmitigated impostors 

 in Cashmere, generally giving themselves all sorts of fine airs, 



