THE PARANG LA. 365 



almost from the summit of the pass for some four or five 

 miles on its northern side. Snow began to fall thickly just 

 before dark, and continued to do so, more or less, during the 

 night. In the morning the weather at first looked rather 

 promising, but the tents were frozen as stiff as boards, and 

 were so incrusted with hard snow that we had to delay our 

 departure until the sun, of which we only got an occasional 

 glimpse, should thaw them a little. After our breakfast, 

 which we managed to cook over a smoky little fire made of 

 the few remaining scraps of wet fuel which, with considerable 

 difficulty, we had coaxed into burning, we loaded the yaks 

 and started just as it again began snowing more thickly than 

 ever. The limited supply of fuel we had brought up with us 

 was done, and the poor yaks had already been fasting for two 

 days or more ; besides this there was some fear, if the snow- 

 storm continued, that the pass might become permanently 

 closed for the winter: we therefore determined, under any 

 circumstances, to make an effort and push over it at once 

 into Spiti. 



For more than six weary hours did we toil up against the 

 almost blinding snow and piercing wind that chilled us to 

 the very marrow, although the distance to the summit was 

 only six or seven miles. It was truly wonderful to see the 

 way in which the yaks struggled through the deep snow, and 

 scrambled over places which were often difficult, and some- 

 times dangerous to traverse. Nothing could have exceeded 

 the powers of endurance evinced by these animals, which 

 were game to the backbone and as sure-footed as goats. One 

 of them, notwithstanding, lost its footing on a steep slope of 

 n6v&, and went rolling and sliding down until it was fortu- 

 nately stopped by a friendly rock, otherwise it must have 

 disappeared for ever under the glacier, and with it my dear 

 old Whitworth rifle, which, among other things, it was carrying. 

 On regaining its feet the creature merely shook itself, and on 

 being disentangled from its load soon clambered up again. 



