ROCK-SLIPS. 413 



This is the only place in the Himalayas where I noticed the 

 real old British gooseberry. Here it grows wild, as well as 

 the currant, which is common in many parts, both black and 

 red. On my return here from Hundes, the gooseberries 

 were well formed, although scarcely large enough at the time 

 for a tart. They never ripen sufficiently to eat raw. Ex- 

 cellent wild rhubarb, too, is often to be found on the southern 

 slopes of all the higher ranges, where it commences shooting 

 up from its roots just after the winter snow melts off the 

 ground. It is called " dolu " by the Bhotias, and is the same 

 as the Turkey rhubarb. Another kind called "taturee" is 

 found on the northern slopes of the Himalayas and all over 

 Tibet, in a cold dry climate. 



After passing the Bhotia hamlets of Bumpa and Gumsali, 

 the path enters a narrow gorge, where the scenery for about a 

 mile is magnificently wild. The raging river is flanked on 

 each side by bare black cliffs and crags rising from the water 

 to a stupendous height. Colonel E. Smyth, whose experience 

 of this country extended over many years, and whose moun- 

 taineering exploits are so often quoted in these pages, tells 

 me that in 1859 he found the road at this spot quite impass- 

 able. In fact, for a quarter of a mile he said it was quite, 

 obliterated. A landslip had commenced the year before from 

 the overhanging heights. Every two or three minutes, day 

 and night, great stones came thundering down. This state 

 of things went on without intermission for about two years, 

 when it stopped quite suddenly. The road was then remade, 

 and has never since been interrupted. In his many wander- 

 ings among the higher ranges, Colonel Smyth had two very 

 narrow escapes from these rock-slips, of which the following 

 are the short but thrilling narratives he has kindly favoured 

 me with : 



" Twenty -two years ago I was very fond of exploring, and 

 I determined to cross from Ealum, in the Johar valley of 

 Kumaon, into the Darma valley, by a pass which had long 



