TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 75 



able. Day after day, however, the sun rose and set in 

 unclouded splendour, or occasionally amid cloud of red 

 and orange hues, or behind dark blue hills and over 

 the mirror-like surface of many lakes, bordered by tall 

 pine-trees standing out blackly against the sky. 



Plenty of reindeer, the private property of the Lapps, 

 were seen all the way down upon the banks of the 

 river as we glided past. 



On quitting the hospitable hamlet of the Lapp- 

 bonders by whom I had been entertained, and who 

 would take no payment but fish, we floated quickly 

 down the current towards the rapid. On reaching my 

 fishing ground of the evening before, I threw in a 

 salmon fly, and got a pull from a good trout, but soon 

 returned to the spoon, and in half an hour landed three 

 good fish of 2^-lb., and 4|lb. and 61b., and then gave 

 up fishing in view of the more serious business in 

 hand. 



The volume of water was about three times heavier 

 than that of the Thames at its usual level. Had there 

 been less, the rocks would have made it too unsafe to 

 descend. Carl Forsham, who was better acquainted 

 with the cataract than Olaf, was to take the boat down, 

 having descended it on previous occasions on a raft. 



The boat was run ashore at the head of the rapid, 

 bailed out to ride as light as possible, everything 

 except a few light articles taken out and a false gun- 

 wale nailed on ; while Olaf, shouldering my baggage, 

 beckoned me to follow him through the wood. I had 

 enormous confidence, however, in Carl, and was 



