A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 143 



vellers should conceal their guide books, or make use 

 of the silver key to the Golden Horn. 



From Constantinople I went direct to Mount Athos, 

 which is well worth a visit. Steamers run weekly to 

 it from Constantinople, and a short description may 

 prove interesting. 



All the monasteries are rich, and some exceedingly 

 so. They neither expect nor wish for any recompense 

 from the traveller commended to their hospitality by 

 the Patriarch of the Greek Church at Constantinople ; 

 nor is payment ever received from Eussian kalmuk or 

 Turkish pasha, from English milord or Grecian 

 peasant. A letter from the Archimandrite in London, 

 or from our Legation at Constantinople, secures the 

 necessary letter from the head of the Greek Church, 

 and assures to the bearer treatment and reception 

 accorded to travellers of distinction. If he should 

 come supplied with tobacco and photographs of men 

 and women (especially the latter) who live in the 

 unknown outer world, he will cause much innocent 

 delight to the venerable fathers. 



One of the most astonishing features of the Holy 

 Mountain is the rigid manner in which the female sex 

 is banished from the sight, but not, it is to be feared, 

 from the thoughts of the worthy old ascetics. They 

 still tell of the time when two wives of officers of the 

 British fleet landed by special permission at the port 

 of Lavro, and caused some astonished " brothers " to 

 fly for shelter within the convent gates, pursued as 

 they thought by devils in the garb of angels of light. 



