KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 251 



Next day the march to Rampoor was a long one, 

 as was also the succeeding one to Baramoola, which 

 was made in falling snow. At the latter place is the 

 commencement of the Valley of Kashmir, and also of 

 navigation on this portion of the Jhelum. The tra- 

 vellers' bungalow is still in ruins, never having been 

 restored since the earthquake ; so I took refuge from 

 the storm in the only possible place, short of pitching 

 camp, the native houses not being inhabitable ; 

 namely, in one of the floating habitations in which I 

 was now to continue the journey to Surinaggar, occu- 

 pying four days. Unnumbered blessings did one 

 mentally rain down upon the sacred memory of those 

 early Italian missionaries (curiously the Kashmiris 

 are named the Neapolitans of the East), who have 

 the credit of having introduced the Italian scaldino, 

 here known as a kangri, among the inhabitants of 

 this place. Never during winter is the true, lazy 

 inhabitant of this happy valley to be seen, if he is 

 seated, without this cherished instrument beneath his 

 clothes, and diffusing from its mysterious place of 

 concealment its genial warmth. They are also 

 credited with having caused the Christian symbolic 

 letters I. H. S. to be struck upon certain of the 

 current silver coins of this Mohammedan country, one 

 of which hangs on my chain as I write. The snow 

 continued to fall for three succeeding days; the 

 coolies had been paid off and had decamped, and our 

 progress across the Woolar Lake and the river to 

 Surinaggar was slow, owing to the strong current, 



