A EIDE TO TEHERAN TN 1888. 323 



able soap, in a manner which I never beheld else- 

 where; from which one emerges as Aphrodite did 

 from the sea-foam at Paphos on the west coast of 

 Cyprus. 



English goods still hold the market, it is satis- 

 factory to know, and I saw many courtyards or 

 caravanserais in Tabreez piled high with English 

 bales brought from Trebizond on the backs of camels, 

 horses, mules or donkeys, notwithstanding the proxi- 

 mity of Kussia, the difficulties she has laid in the 

 way of English commerce with Persia, and the inland 

 situation of Tabreez, though not long ago Eussia 

 allowed English goods to pass free of duty. By 

 means of this route from Trebizond our goods now 

 never enter Eussian territory. Many Persians who 

 owed them thousands of pounds were pointed out to 

 me by the Stevens, which they were never likely to 

 see. Yet their business is lucrative in the long run. 

 The Blue Mosque, which is a beautiful ruin with 

 remains of exquisite blue enamelled tiles, and the 

 citadel, are the only sights to be visited in Tabreez. 



Near Tabreez rises a mountain of a golden colour, 

 owing to the earth of which it is made, and a thin 

 growth on it of a kind of grass. Immediately behind 

 it rises a higher one of a rose-red colour, forming a 

 remarkable contrast to the hill in front. In Persia 

 a landscape of this character is frequently observed, 

 and without a single tree in sight. 



Of small game, wild pigeons and partridges are 

 the most numerous round Tabreez; wherever there 



Y 2 



