324 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES. 



are marshes (which, except in the south, is seldom) 

 snipe and duck are to be found. A few bears are to 

 be shot in the mountains round Lake Urmia, and 

 what are called ibex on the highest peaks. Gazelles 

 and lions are confined to the south ; the latter are not 

 numerous, notwithstanding Colonel St. John's adven- 

 ture, and the fact that a lion figures on the Persian 

 standard. The sport round Teheran and on the shores 

 of the Caspian is of a different kind. 



In order to reach Teheran, the capital, I now had to 

 ride ninety-two farasahks, or three hundred and sixty - 

 eight miles, and then to drive one hundred miles in 

 rough springless carts, changing horses at the chapar 

 Ichanehs at each fifteen to twenty -five miles. At the 

 first station, named Saidabad, they gave me the best 

 horses of any I used, either before or after, during the 

 entire journey ; their paces were so lively that in a 

 short time my saddle-bags parted into two, and after 

 stopping to repair them we reached the next station- 

 house just before dusk, where I resolved to pass the 

 night. 



This building was like most of the other chapar 

 khanehs, or post-stations. Excepting the Shah's 

 palaces in Teheran and a few other buildings, mosques 

 and baths, houses in Persia are constructed entirely 

 and solely of mud, which becomes quite hard ; but the 

 roofs, which are flat, are supported by light beams. 

 In this post-station, as in many others, the small room 

 for travellers was built upon the roof, several panes of 

 glass were missing, the door refused to remain entirely 



