THE COOKERY OF 7 HE SALMON 211 



have done injustice to pike or tench. 'To mak 

 samon rost in sauce ' ' Tak a samon and cult him in 

 round (?) peccs and rost him on a gredirne, and tak 

 wyn and ponder of canelle and draw them through a 

 stren, and mynce onyans smalle, and do ther to boilen, 

 then ther tak vergices pouder of peper and guinger 

 and salt and do ther to the samon in a difshe and 

 pour on the ceripe and service it.' After that aggrava- 

 tion of the temper, it is refreshing to turn to the 

 modern precepts for boiling. There is no great 

 divergence on the subject, but Megg I )odds, as 

 an enlightened Scotchwoman, is as safe an authority 

 as any. 



' Scale or clean the fish without unnecessary 

 washing or handling, and without cutting it too much 

 open. Have a roomy and well-scoured fish kettle, and 

 if the salmon be large or thick, when you have placed 

 it on the strainer or in the kettle, fill up and amply 

 cover it with cold spring water that it may heat 

 gradually. Throw in a handful of salt. If a jowl or 

 quarter is boiled, it may be put in with warm water. 

 In both cases take off the scum carefully and let the 

 fish boil slowly, allowing twelve minutes to the 

 pound. The minute the boiling of any fish is 

 completed, the fish strainer must be lifted and laid 

 across the pan to drain the fish. Throw a soft cloth 



