THE COOKERY OF THE SALMON 213 



culpable recklessness of his criticism, than when he 

 called on the waiter Tor the cruets, the mustard, etc., 

 when sitting down to a noble Tay salmon. But 

 when the fish has lost something even of its second 

 day freshness, we are open to consolation, for it gives 

 a chance to the sauce Hollandaise or the Tartare. 

 With salmon cold, whether plain or dressed, the 

 Tartare comes naturally, and indeed it may be 

 almost identified with the sauce Mayonnaise. 



' Broiling is best,' sings Southey in a Pindaric Ode, 

 when beef and mutton were looming in the poetic eye. 

 If he had been singing of the salmon, a good many 

 connoisseurs would have been inclined to agree with 

 him. Partly, perhaps, because after coming home 

 from a long day's sport, or when kindling a camp 

 fire at the bivouac in the sheltered open, the salmon 

 sliced and broiled is most quickly served with the 

 sauce piquante of ravenous appetite. Mrs. 1 )odds 

 asserts that fresh salmon grilled is ' the way in which 

 the solitary epicure best relishes this luxury.' 'Split 

 the salmon and take out the bones ' they may be 

 subsequently devilled ' cut fillets of from three to 

 four inches in breadth ' too thick, we think ' dry 

 them in the folds of a cloth, but do not beat or press 

 them. Have a clean fire and a bright, barred 

 gridiron, rubbed with chalk to prevent the fish from 



