THE COOKERY OF THE SALMON 217 



French vinegar, set the mortar in a cold place or on 

 ice for an hour, then stir in a teaspoonful of finely 

 chopped chives or shalot.' 



Mayonnaise and other artistic arrangements of 

 cold salmon are of course in favour for ball suppers, 

 the wedding breakfasts which are going out of 

 fashion, and other festivities of the kind. For some 

 of these plats de luxe we may turn to Urban Dubois, 

 who supervised for many years the Court banquets at 

 Berlin. Always an enthusiast in his art, he rises to 

 raptures over the salmon. 'Among the most dis- 

 tinguished and delicious fishes, the salmon is one 

 possessing the most appreciable qualities. From a 

 gastronomic point of view the salmon is a real 

 treasure, being always exquisite, whether fried, 

 smoked, or salted. In whatever way it is dressed, it 

 will always be tempting.' He adds that in the 

 benighted south of Europe, from Marseilles to Con- 

 stantinople, he never saw a fresh salmon in the 

 market, and says that the salmon most esteemed by 

 epicures are unquestionably those of Scotland and the 

 Rhine. He pronounces boiling in a court-bouillon 

 the most fitting mode of cooking, though in that case 

 it is to be eaten hot as may be. Briefly, the fish is 

 boiled in slices as we have described, and then 

 pieced together in the original form. It is to be 



