218 THE SALMON 



garnished with gratinated lobster-shells and sprigs of 

 parsley, and served with sauce Espagnole, flavoured 

 with lemon. We need hardly add that in that dish 

 of high ceremony, essentials must be somewhat 

 sacrificed to appearances. Indeed M. Dubois assents 

 to that when writing of ' slices of salmon with jelly.' 

 He says, 'It is not generally the custom to serve 

 salmon in slices on a ball buffet, but experience has 

 taught that it is a good plan.' He goes on, ' I have 

 endeavoured to serve the salmon in slices, without 

 the least detracting from its pleasing appearance.' 

 This is his recipe for salmon sliced a la Royale, and 

 he remarks that the piece, simple and easy of execu- 

 tion, is not without, its attractions as a variation from 

 the usual masses of fish. 



' Two thick slices must be cut from the broadest 

 part of a large salmon, placed in the drainer of a fish 

 kettle, just covered with a good cold court-bouillon 

 with wine, in order to cook them according to the 

 method applied to salmon, that is to say, at the first 

 boiling of the liquid the kettle is removed to the side 

 of the fire, to be kept there for twenty-five or thirty 

 minutes. When the slices are well-drained and have 

 become cold, the skin is taken off, then dished on a 

 pain-vert of a long shape, masked on the top with white 

 paper, and then fixed on a dish. They are then en- 



