'rmm mmericsn bee joT^Rinai,. 



614 



From Xvro Stand^Points. 



To be a woman— direst woe. 



The rislits of men she ne'er can know. 

 She cannot cast the mighty vote, 



Or sound the ringing campaign note. 



To be a woman— happy state. 

 To govern man and guide his fate. 



She takes ilie middle of the street, 

 And in the liorse-car gets a seat. 



She has her say— more than enough— 

 And ha< if, too, witliout rebuff. 



Creation's king, a man, is seen 

 'Most always vanquished by the queen. 



Square or Round Ends in tlie 

 Zinc-Perforation§. 



Written for the American Bee Journal 



Query 655.— Should the perforationB In 

 the metal used for excludinif queens have 

 square ends or round ones ?— Ills. 



Round ones.^ — A. B. Mason. 

 I think that it does not matter. — J. 

 P. H. Brown. 



I doubt if it makes any difference. — 

 C. C. Miller. 



I would prefer round ends. — M. 

 Mahin. 



It makes no difference which, in mj^ 

 opinion. — G. M. Doolittle. 



I have used onlj' right-angled open- 

 ings. They work well. — A. J. Cook. 



I do not see as it makes any differ- 

 ence. Perhaps round ones. — Mrs. L. 

 Harrison. 



I think that it makes very little dif- 

 ference. C. H. DiBBERN. 



The round ones have worked more 

 satisfactorily with me. — W.M.Barnum. 



I think that the difference in results 

 are too insignificant for consideration. 

 — R. L. Taylor. 



They are oblong with square corners, 

 in what I liave. — Mahala B. Chad- 

 dock. 



I do not know. I h.ave never used 

 any but square-cornered perforations. 

 — Eugene Secor. 



I will leave this question for otliers 

 better qualified to answer — J. M. 

 Hambaugh. 



Round ones may be an improve- 

 ment, but I do not find any objection 

 to the square ones. — P. L. Viallon. 



We would prefer long, round-end 

 perforations, if we used queen-ex- 

 cluders. — Dadant & Son. 



I prefer the round ends, as in my 

 experience the bees are not so apt to 

 fill them with propolis. — J. E. Pond. 



I have never seen but one " make " 

 of the perforated-zinc that had round 

 ends to the iierforatious, and the 

 workmansliip of this " make " was so 



inferior that I would not use it. The 

 square-end slots give perfect satisfac- 

 tion in my apiary, if the work has been 

 nicely done. I regard the perforated- 

 zinc excluders one of the greatest of 

 our modern lielps in the apiary. — G. 

 W. Demaree. 



Well, I do not know which are best, 

 because I have had perfect success 

 with both. Pei-haps there is not 

 enough preference to amount to enough 

 to give it investigation. — James Hed- 



DON. 



I should prefer the round corners, 

 especially if I were manufacturing it. 

 The sheets would be stifter, and less 

 liable to break at the corners. The 

 punches and dies would last longer, 

 with little danger of breaking in hard- 

 ening and tempering. — H. D. Cutting. 



I do not think that it makes any dif- 

 ference. A more important question 

 is, how to facilitate the passage of bees 

 through perforated-zinc ? But that 

 question is fully answered in a prop- 

 erly constructed wood-zinc honey- 

 board. — G. L. Tinker. 



I do not think that it makes any 

 difference. The sharp edges left in 

 the metal by the dies, are my objection 

 to perforated metal. Perhaps galvan- 

 ized iron, punched a ti'ifle large, and 

 then "dipped" again, would be better 

 than the metal now in use. — J. M. 

 Shuck. 



The difterenee is not worth consid- 

 eration, if the perforations are smootlily 

 cut, so as not to leave any sharp edges. 

 — The Editor. 



makins 



a Bee-House 

 terins Bees. 



Written for the American BeeJounial 



Query 656.— Last year I had only 3 colo- 

 nies, and had them in the cellar, but I have 

 12'2 now, and I cannot keep them in the cellar 

 very well next winter ; so I would like to 

 know If a bee-house built like this would do: 

 Say build It 12 feet long and 8 feet wide, and 8 

 feet high, and boards and battens on the out- 

 side, and boards on the Inside with 6-inch 

 space between, to be filled with sawdust, and 

 banked up below on the outside. Of course it 

 will have a (food Boor in It.— H. L. H., Iowa. 



The cellar would 

 especially for the 

 Doolittle. 



We do not like bee-houses, unless 

 thev are entirolv frost-proof. — Dadant 

 & Son. 



Yes, sir, I think that a house built 

 as vou propose, will do very well. — J. 

 P. H. Brown. 



Your house would do very well if 

 double the amount of space for saw- 

 dust was allowed. Also, some plan 

 should be made for ventilating. — Will 

 M. Barnum. 



The general experience with such 

 repositories lias been unsatisfactory. 

 You had better have it under ground. 

 — C. C. Miller. 



I have had no experience in that 

 line, but I should expect to lose that 

 number of colonies in such a house in 

 Michigan.— R. L. Taylor. 



If you can make it warm enough to 

 keep potatoes from freezing, it may 

 do. If not, they had better be out- 

 dooi-s than in such a place. -Eugene 

 Secor. 



It will do very well, but must be 

 perfectly dark. Care must be taken 

 to put the hives out before it gets very 

 warm in the spring.— C. H. Dibbern. 

 Yes, your plan of house will work, 

 but you must keep watch of the tem- 

 perature. The house is very much 

 larger than you need for so few colo- 

 nies. — H. D. Cutting. 



A cave or cellar would be preferable. 

 I do not believe that a house built 

 above ground can be made to retain 

 an even temperature sufficient to in- 

 sure successful wintering. — J. M. Ham- 

 baugh. 



In your locality I would rather try 

 out-door packing. I would prefer 1'2 

 inch walls to those 6 inches thick, in 

 the clear. You have almost too few- 

 bees now to keep such a room warm 

 in a cold time, and you do not men- 

 tion artificial heat. — James Heddon. 



I do not believe that it will do. If 

 the walls were 12 inches instead of 6, 

 it would be better. In this climate 

 (Indiana) I would prefer to leave them 

 on the summer stands, with plenty of 

 ventilation at the bottom, and sawdust 

 for >Vni- 01. other packing on top.— M. Mahin. 



Yes, this will make a good bee-house, 

 but I would prefer 12 inches of saw- 

 du.st rather than G. After all, I would 

 prefer the hives ou the summer stands, 

 properly protected. See a short arti- 

 cle on the use of straw mats in this 

 issue.— J. M. Shuck. 



I do not think that the 6-inch saw- 

 dust space is enough for safe winter- 

 ing in a bee-house above ground, in 

 Iowa. Such a house, constructed 

 with two feet of dry eartli over the 

 bees, and on all sides, woidd no doubt 

 be a great success.— G. L. Tinker. 



Such a house will not do. The wall 

 would need to be 12 or 15 inches thick. 

 Why not dig in the earth, roof over, 

 and" so make an out-door cellar ? For 

 our severe Nortliern winters, such a 

 depositorv is much safer than a house, 

 unless the walls of the latter are double, 

 and enclose a very wide space. — A. J. 

 Cook. 



Much will depend. I keep ray bees 

 entirely on the summer stands, with 

 even less protection. More depends 

 upon preparation for winter, in tlie in- 



be much the best, 

 J-colony. — G. M. 



